Croatia

After a month in Eastern Europe, we were pretty excited about getting to the Mediterranean climate of the Balkans and were probably most excited about taking in some R&R on the Adriatic, but our first experience in Croatia was its capital, Zagreb. We had heard some mixed things about Zagreb... nothing bad, but nothing positive enough to suggest that any extended time there would be warranted. Since the path out of Slovenia and to our next overnight destination (Plitvice Lakes National Park) required a stop in Zagreb, we decided to make the most of it and spent about three hours walking the town. After this short excursion into Zagreb, we made our way by bus to Plitvice for two nights. We explored the park for the day, witnessing some truly unique and amazingly picturesque scenery. We then made our way to Split, on the Dalmatian Coast for our first taste of the Adriatic. Two nights in Split were followed by a ferry ride to Hvar for some time in the sun on Croatia's most popular island. A ferry back to Split was followed by a nauseatingly uncomfortable bus ride down the coast to Dubrovnik, our favorite and final stop in Croatia.

For the sake of time, I wont get into all the details, so here are a few of our observations and highlights of our time in Croatia:

-Zagreb felt like Western Europe. The architecture, the style, and the sheer number of cafes seemed reminiscent of Vienna to me. We found out later, in talking with a local, that Croatians (along with Slovenians) have always felt more closely associated with the West than the East despite their place behind the Iron Curtain.

-Plitvice Lakes National Park was incredible. I am so glad that we stumbled upon this and decided to make the trek out there. I dont know all the science of it, but these really unique geological basins created a series of pools and waterfalls with the most incredible water color that contrasted so beautifully with the green-turning-yellow forest. Stunning. And it was a great time, like at Bled, to get away from all the cities and be able to hike and experience the outdoors.


(amazing Plitvice...the colors here were unbelievable)

-We stayed at a guest house in Plitvice which was really great. The guy who owns it brought us some homemade brandy, made from some plums from the trees out back, as a welcome drink. Perfect after a long bus ride!

-Split really surprised us, despite the smell at the waterfront. It is the jump off point for most of the ferries to-from the islands, so there is a lot of tourist traffic. The main tourist draw for the town, however, is the massive palace built by Emperor Diocletian. The old town still exists within the walls of the palace; a maze of alleys with shops, apartments, and the occasional Roman edifice.

-Hvar was beautiful, although expensive.


(relaxing in Hvar on the Adriatic...no one around...sailboats occasionally coasting by...reading the second Twilight book...heaven)

-It was also a ghost town when we were there... really strange given that it had just barely turned from September to October. I understand this is the shoulder season, but it was DEAD. The beach was clean and the sun and water were warm, but the hotels were abandoned for the winter. Beach chairs that you would normally have to pay for were just laying around for the taking. We spent time soaking up the sun on the water's edge and had it all to ourselves

-Dubrovnik was even more amazing than we had anticipated. At the time we arrived, our first inclimate weather of the trip arrived. It was incredibly windy and cold (it had been sunny and warm a day earlier), and rain poured each night we were there. But the daytime stayed dry for the most part, allowing us to explore much of the city.


(red-roofed Dubrovnik)

-Our hostel owner, an ex-sailor in Titos navy, was the nicest man ever and was so helpful... even coordinating to drive us up to the fort high above the town for some incredible views.

All in all, Croatia was great. And it was a good way to end our time in Eastern Europe.

Now... off to Italy.